If you ask devotees of haute horlogerie about the most eye-catching collaborations that have come to light over the past few years, they will most certainly mention Richard Mille and French graffiti artist Cyril Kongo, TAG Heuer and American street artist Alec Monopoly, or Corum and French artist Aiiroh. Another absolute must is the association between Zenith and Felipe Pantone, whose unique style combines graffiti, kinetic, and optical art. This partnership gave rise to two watch creations high in colour. For the first, this Spanish-Argentinian artist revisited Zenith’s most sophisticated chronograph, the “Defy 21”, contributing design based on the principle of interferential colours, with coating comprised of particles of silicium to reproduce the full spectrum of visible light. By fine-tuning this gradient of PVD rainbow shades, Zenith achieved two world firsts in the watchmaking arena. For the second model, Felipe Pantone borrowed inspiration from his successful series of “Planned Iridescence” artworks. Audacious colours, metallic features, shapes, and nuances designed mathematically to create optical illusions: this limited edition of the “Defy Extreme” transcends the frontiers of analogical and virtual worlds by presenting a chromatic hologram which only appears under certain lighting conditions... Fascinating!

More recently, Hublot has been the watchmaker drawing attention for its collaborations with famous international artists, including Carlos Cruz-Diez of Venezuela, American street artist Shepard Fairey (aka Obey), French sculptor Richard Orlinski with whom the brand has worked for the past eight years, and Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. The success encountered by these last two partnerships has been such that their collaborations have been renewed year after year, always extending the boundaries of creativity. In fact, at the end of 2023, Hublot unveiled its fifth piece co-invented with the icon of Japanese Pop Art: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. This model adopts the artist’s emblematic motif, a flower with 12 petals on a case made of… sapphire! Takashi Murakami then adds a personal touch by humanizing the dial with a pair of eyes and a very wide smile, making this extraordinary timepiece in a limited edition of only 50 pieces even more special.

Beforehand, it was the bright, clear colours of the flower that had stolen the show, notably in the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow, set with 487 stones including rubies, sapphires, amethysts, and tsavorites, reproducing the nuances of a rainbow.

Independent watchmakers are also making their marks, such as MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends) renowned for their avant-garde timepieces. Their latest offering, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love,” produced in collaboration with French artist and designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – a first for MB&F – is a perfect illustration. In a limited edition of 999 pieces, this watch bears the designer’s three signature colours: red for passion, blue for hope, and yellow for human warmth. Not forgetting green, visible on the hours ring, and recalling childhood memories for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. In addition to its visual appeal, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” delivers a profound message. Surrounding the rotor, a quote from the artist reminds us that “time is a rare and precious treasure” of which we are the guardians. The watch is completed by a leather strap bearing the model’s name. A message which is a perfect reflection of the philosophy of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who makes use of his art to wave the banner of love, peace, and spirituality.

Celebrating unions between watchmakers’ expertise and artistic creativity, these collaborations, much prized by collectors, bear witness to a shared desire to explore new territories and reach a wider public. Real miniature masterpieces, these outstanding watches also remind us that watchmaking is not purely a matter of technique and precision, but also of art and emotions.